How to make a prop bait
June 26th 2008 00:49
People may think that making a propeller or "prop bait", as they're usually called, is difficult but it's actually fairly easy if you're using a dowel rod as mentioned in the last post.
As a quick recap, cut about 4" of a 5/8" dowel rod to use as your lure. Blunt one end, if not both ends, and taper the other end if you choose not to make it blunt. Before the hardware is added, I suggest adding any design you desire and using a waterproof varnish over your paint. Then, you can add hooks--#4 or #6.
Just as you did with the simple top water lure, add a couple of hook holders or screw eyes. I suggest spacing your hooks so they don't get tangled in the wind as you cast.
One thing that makes the prop bait work is the hook at the end. This is also where the propeller lies and may cause confusion.
To combat this, the very first thing you want to do is drill a small pilot hole into the very center of your tapered or blunt end.
The next steps are almost one BIG step but, it's actually a lot of little ones.
Take a screw eye with a long shaft and place it through the center of a metal cup with the curve of the cup facing toward your lure. Then, put your propeller blade on the shaft and against the cup.
After that, place a thin metal washer on the shaft of the screw eye if you use a blunt end or one a few centimeters long if you use a tapered end.
Finally, put the apparatus in the pilot hole and tighten.
This is where things get dicey! You don't want to go too loose here or too tight. If things are too tight, the propeller won't turn. However, if it's too loose, a big fish might pull your hardware out of the lure. You can always start out loose and tighten as you go along using your bathtub or kitchen sink as a proving ground.
Once you are satisfied, back things out and put a dab of epoxy on the threads and retighten.
Lastly, drill a pilot hole near the front so you can insert another screw eye and have a place to tie your line.
The last thing to do is add your hooks. For the tail hook, you add a spring ring and secure it to the back screw eye.
Chances are you're going to have to tweak your propeller a bit. It seems like about half of them are totally FLAT when you take them out of their packaging and they end up making a nasty splash in the water but not much else. It's okay to twist them a little to make them turn correctly and act like a true propeller. Also, you may notice that users of prop baits often bend the prop blades. This determines how much spin the blade has. I like to bend my blades a little but I don't recommend bending the rear blade too much because it will interfere with the hook if you bend it too much--and you definitely don't want to do that!
That's all there is to it. I guarantee a prop bait will catch fish!
Here's my disclaimer: You may see a lot of lures out there that have a propeller at the back and front. I'm not 100% sold on this design because there's always the possibility of getting your line caught in the front prop during a cast and that will ruin your cast. Also, the prop can act like a cutter and while it may not sever your line, it will cause nicks and weak places.
Until next time--watch yourself and watch your line!
As a quick recap, cut about 4" of a 5/8" dowel rod to use as your lure. Blunt one end, if not both ends, and taper the other end if you choose not to make it blunt. Before the hardware is added, I suggest adding any design you desire and using a waterproof varnish over your paint. Then, you can add hooks--#4 or #6.
Don't forget these two versatile plug designs!
One thing that makes the prop bait work is the hook at the end. This is also where the propeller lies and may cause confusion.
To combat this, the very first thing you want to do is drill a small pilot hole into the very center of your tapered or blunt end.
The next steps are almost one BIG step but, it's actually a lot of little ones.
Mount the cup, blade, and then washer on a screw eye.
After that, place a thin metal washer on the shaft of the screw eye if you use a blunt end or one a few centimeters long if you use a tapered end.
Finally, put the apparatus in the pilot hole and tighten.
This is where things get dicey! You don't want to go too loose here or too tight. If things are too tight, the propeller won't turn. However, if it's too loose, a big fish might pull your hardware out of the lure. You can always start out loose and tighten as you go along using your bathtub or kitchen sink as a proving ground.
Once you are satisfied, back things out and put a dab of epoxy on the threads and retighten.
Lastly, drill a pilot hole near the front so you can insert another screw eye and have a place to tie your line.
The last thing to do is add your hooks. For the tail hook, you add a spring ring and secure it to the back screw eye.
If you have any doubts about the effectiveness of prop baits, why do you think I have two of them?
That's all there is to it. I guarantee a prop bait will catch fish!
Here's my disclaimer: You may see a lot of lures out there that have a propeller at the back and front. I'm not 100% sold on this design because there's always the possibility of getting your line caught in the front prop during a cast and that will ruin your cast. Also, the prop can act like a cutter and while it may not sever your line, it will cause nicks and weak places.
Until next time--watch yourself and watch your line!
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